It crept up on me again. The insatiable wanderlust I’ve had for as long as I can remember. Even if doctors find a cure for it one day, I will refuse any and all treatment. Traveling and exploring and experiencing are when I feel most alive.
For St. Patrick’s Day weekend I flew down to Osaka to meet up with some friends. I hadn’t seen Meagan since our India experience (there’s no other way to describe that trip), and I hadn’t seen Joey since Tokyo Orientation and the Los Angeles Pre-Departure hotel party in a bathroom that had a tub full of ice and alcohol.
Almost the instant Meagan and I were reunited at the airport we started acting like our normal, ridiculous selves. Poor Joey had to put up with it for the next 4 days, but in the end he joined the Dark Side and participated in the ruckus!
Osaka is a crazy city. To quote, albeit with some minor changes, “you will never find a more wretched hive of hedonism and debauchery”. Osaka made its mark as a merchant city. As such, back in the day money changed hands quickly and the city grew to be one that took pleasure in earthly delights-namely food. Nowadays it’s well known for delicious street food, dance clubs, business, host clubs, hostess clubs and being a great stepping stone into the Kansai region. It’s bright, it’s loud, it’s dirty (by Japanese standards) and its atmosphere is gloriously laid back and fun in comparison with snooty, uptight Tokyo to the north.
I loved it, yet I wouldn't want to live there.
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Throwing salt to purify the ring |
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Are you not entertained?! |
Our first day, our trio went and saw Sumo with a big group of JETs from Wakayama. This was my second time viewing the sport, and I definitely liked it better this time around. I was very surprised to see that there were quite a few foreign wrestlers in the ring. It’s been a trend over the past few years that the top wrestlers have been Mongolian, but at this particular event there were at least 5 in the more serious matches.
The evening was spent getting dressed up, coordinating with Meagan’s Kagoshima JET friends and going in search of an Irish bar for St. Patrick’s Day. Eventually, we found a place where we could have a few drinks, then stumbled our way to late night karaoke.
Interesting Teigan Trivia: I do not pride myself on my math skills, but apparently a little alcohol and a lot of sleepiness make me gifted. We took a taxi home early Sunday morning and I was sleeping for most of it. The moment the car stopped moving and the driver told us our total my head snapped up and I spouted out what each of us owed individually. Then promptly went back to sleep.
Sunday was spent sleeping in and slowly exploring the city. We managed to drag ourselves through the rain and go to Osaka Castle, which is very beautiful on the outside but, in my opinion, lacks a certain authenticity inside. I wasn’t keen on paying to go inside, so we ended up meandering around the grounds and eating Sakura (Cherry Blossom) flavored ice cream. Not a bad way to spend the afternoon!
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Osaka castle |
I put on my Tour Guide Teigan glasses on Monday and herded the gang into Kyoto. Although the sakura weren’t blooming, we still found the place lovely. As we strolled through the old entertainment district, Gion, we spotted several maiko and Geisha. Their kimono, hair, and make up are all simply breathtaking.
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Entrance gate to Kiyomizudera |
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A maiko on her way to work in Gion |
The highlight of the trip for me personally was the quick visit we made to the Human Rights Museum in Osaka. Understand that no country is perfect (the United States in particular has yet to own up to several events that I personally find abhorrent), but sometimes Japan comes off as this blessedly perfect nation rich in cultural heritage and history.
To put it bluntly, denial, apathy and cultural nationalism are largely responsible for this. It’s a long discussion to get started with, and I doubt anyone really reads this anyway so I’m not going to get into the nitty-gritty. Suffice to say Japan has a legacy of discrimination against ethnic minorities, indigenous groups, women, homosexuals, the physically and mentally handicapped, people living with HIV/AIDS, Atomic Bomb survivors (possibly the biggest WTF moment), Hansen’s Disease sufferers, and the homeless.
As such, this museum is probably the only one of its kind in Japan dedicated to discrimination. I had wanted to visit the past 2 times I’ve been in Osaka, but the timing never worked out.
Unfortunately, we were rather rushed because we had made lunch plans. However, the volunteers who staffed the exhibits were incredibly knowledgeable and kind, and despite most of the plaques having only Japanese explanations, there were subtitled videos and an English audio guide. Overall, it was really worth it to at least glean a little bit more information about how some of the aforementioned groups live in Japan and what steps they are taking in order to be seen as equals within society.
Our long weekend adventure had perfect timing to cheer me up after a stressful few weeks. I met new people, reconnected with others, ate some scrumptious food, and had a memorable time in the den of debauchery known as Osaka.