Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts

Saturday, May 10, 2014

Spring of Color

Short lived as it is, spring is postcard perfect in Japan. The sakura have bloomed and my heavy winter sweaters are put away for another year.

It’s great to finally be motivated enough by the weather to go outside and do things.
There’s a saying, modified from an old Chinese poem, that describes this season: 
春民暁を覚えず(Shumin akatsuki o oboezu). It means “In spring, one sleeps a sleep that knows no dawn”. The weather has grown so fine that people are staying out later (probably under the sakura trees), and thus sleeping later and avoiding the dawn. You could also say that since the sun is rising much earlier (5 am this morning for me), people wake up with full sunshine instead of the cold grey of winter.
Here are some of the things that have made me forget what dawn looks like:

Color Run: The happiest untimed 5K run on the planet!




Aomori: First day of spring, and it snowed enough to delay our bus




Sakura: The classic sign of winter ending and spring beginning.








Sunday, November 17, 2013

Culture Day

   Living in Japan, I am surrounded by "culture". Japanese language, Japanese style TV, manga, food, history, fashion, transportation, morals, ethics... But really, culture is relative, and you only realize what you are experiencing is "culture" when you're out of your normal "culture". The line between my American culture and my Japanese culture is blurry times, and I find myself no longer starry-eyed over things I once was. Those elements of "culture" have become normal.

   The first weekend of November was a 3 day weekend, celebrating, betcha can't guess, Culture Day. Once upon a time-about 100 years ago- it was celebrated as the Meiji Emperor's birthday. The Meiji Emperor (given name:Mutsuhito. Fun fact: all the Japanese emperor's name's have ended in ~hito since forever ago) was head of state during Japan's transformation from a feudal nation to a highly industrialized world power.After the second world war, it was eventually reinstated as a national holiday. This year, I actually did something culture-y!

    Ever made sashimi? Neither had I, but I've lived here long enough that I now am starting to see the spare bits and pieces of fish at the market less as "Ick!" and more as "Hm, how could I cook THAT?". Sashimi is just another one of those things that I was too scared to try making by myself.

    Enter Junji, a friend of TG's, who was born and raised in the Shikoku region. He is a Renaissance Man, with a wide pool of knowledge and a generally uncle-ish manner. We went over to his house to be shown how it's done, Mind you, sashimi is the actual fish. All that "sushi" people are eating is actually the name of the vinegared rice. So delicious...

    Anyway, so the first stop was the fish market, where we picked out some mackerel pike, Japanese amberjack (yellowtail), and red sea bream. The fish mongers were nice enough to clean out the insides, but we had the joy of chopping the heads off ourselves.I'm not squeamish, so that wasn't an issue, but man I need to work on my knife skills. It was labor intensive: Remove the scales (if needed), hack off the head, slice in half around the spine, repeat on the other side, remove the ribs from both flanks, slice a skinless fillet. I was terrible about slicing the flanks off, but decent at taking the skin off. After we were left with out fillets, we then cut them into bite-sized pieces. For sashimi, it is very important that you NOT wiggle your knife back and forth while cutting the fish. It messes up the fat deposits. 


    Throwing the rice together was sticky, messy affair, but the end result was a feast! Coupled with the fish head soup Junji made, his homemade beer, and hot coffee when the wind picked up in the evening, it was a lovely day.I haven't made sashimi since that weekend, but now I know if I really want to impress any visitors that I have the perfect menu hidden up my sleeve!


Monday, June 24, 2013

Let's Making Umeshu



Drinking is a huge part of socializing in Japan. In fact, it’s often said that the Japanese really only let their guard down and speak their true feelings in the presence of alcohol-whether or not they are drunk. The portmanteau “nommunication” is a combination of the Japanese verb nomu (“to drink”) and communication. It is well understood by the expat community and fairly well in the Japanese community.

I’ve had my fair share of drunken experiences- from receiving unwanted advances from men who felt they had the right to get a response from me to heartfelt confessions. I’ve become a regular at my local standing bar and made several Japanese friends there. The owner doesn’t care if I come in and just order food or non-alcoholic beverages. That kind of easy-going, laid-back atmosphere is what has kept Sabina and I going back. 
Nommunication at its best!
One of my favorite alcoholic drinks in Japan is umeshu, usually translated as “Plum Wine”. It’s not really a wine, per se, it’s a liqueur. I normally drink it on the rocks, although I have been known to add a bit of tonic water and drink it that way. It’s sweet, but not overpowering if aged properly. 

It’s also incredibly easy (and legal) to make at home!  I completely missed the bottling season last year, and when I saw the plums are being sold in the grocery stores this year I decided that now was the time to act.
So, I acquired a glass jug and supplies from some friends and set off to make my umeshu. Like I said, it’s pretty easy. 

I had to buy the plums-it is essential that they be unripe-some rock sugar and the appropriate alcohol. Technically I could have gone with any brandy or shochu over 35% alcohol, but I chose to buy the specially matched fruit liquor. 

Picking out the stems while listening to mindless J-TV
 Next, I washed and dried the plums and used a skewer to pick out the stems. After that, I layered the sugar and plums in the jug, then poured in the alcohol! I have a little alcohol left over and I am very tempted to try making other fruit liqueurs. There is a kiwi recipe that has me intrigued.
Ready to go. See you in a few months!
After sealing up the jug, I tucked it away in the back of a closet. Some say you can drink it in 3 months, but I think I might wait until the new year. Aging definitely helps the clarity of umeshu. I can’t wait to tell you about it! Keep an eye out for another post in about 6 months!

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Shanainagins!

My lovely friend Shaina came to visit over Golden Week at the beginning of May. It was awesome having a little slice of home with me for 10 wonderful days in Japan! Now that I think about it, maybe one of the reasons I haven’t really been homesick is because every couple months someone from California has been able to visit me. Regardless, it really is nice having a familiar face around!

Since she was here for Golden Week-the busiest travel and holiday time in Japan- I didn’t have to work much and we went on a little mini vacation together. In the end, I got to cross 2 things off my Japan Bucket List!

One of the first things we did was take an overnight bus to Hiroshima. The parks and museums dedicated to peace and nuclear disarmament are beautiful and thought provoking. The energy of Hiroshima is relaxed compared to Tokyo, but it hasn’t completely forgotten the horror that befell it 70 years ago
.

The best way to relieve the heaviness of Hiroshima, in my opinion, was going to Bunny Island! During the war, the island functioned as a secret poison gas making factory (in clear violation of the Geneva Convention buuuuut that’s a completely different ranting story). With the Occupation, the factories were destroyed and rabbits soon overran the island. Rumor has it that they are the offspring of released test bunnies, but others say they descend from school rabbits. Either way, the result is smile inducing cuteness!


 Shaina was brave enough to sample all the food I threw in front of her, including Hiroshima’s local specialty: raw oysters!
Miyajima-a UNESCO World Heritage site


The remainder of our time together was spent nosing around Tokyo and enjoying a few relaxing days together. We trekked out to the foothills of Western Saitama for the annual Shibazakura blooms and were stunned by the gorgeous carpet of flowers.
 The super “Japanese” thing we did was kimono rental in Kawagoe with a few other friends! For 2100 yen ($20 USD), we were outfitted in kimono, socks, shoes, hair accessories and bags and allowed to wander the surrounding area for almost 8 hours. Those things are surprisingly difficult to walk in, and the shoes aren’t  helpful either. Still, it was fun, even if we did have to get a bit vocal about not having cameras rudely shoved in our faces. Ah, the allure of being a non-Japanese person in Japan doing something Japanese. It’s so….mythical. To the Japanese, that is.


Thursday, May 16, 2013

Oh my word, I have a job?

The fun thing about teaching overseas is usually the funny things my students write on their papers.

Things like “My father, who likes cheese, makes me happy”. For a while, I kept track of every silly and hilarious non sequitur I came across but I soon realized that I would spend more time logging them than actually instructing.

I enjoy my job, although sometimes the slow months wear too slowly and I find myself frustrated at “the system”. It’s particularly tough because there is absolutely nothing I can do to change it or influence it.

However, as I’m sure anyone in the teaching profession will tell you, the students are what make the days of tedious grading, planning, and desk warming worth it. 
The current fad for school kids is to take photos like this, recreating an attack from the popular anime "Dragon Ball"
 I teach at 3 senior high schools in Saitama Prefecture. One is within walking distance from my apartment in Iwatsuki which is great for the snow days we had this spring. It focuses on International Culture, so there is a 3 year course dedicated to furthering internationalization. Additionally, there are more foreign-born and mixed raced students at this school.

My second school is a Commercial High School located a few stops down my train line. When the weather is nice I usually bike the 25 minutes or so to that school. Most of the students enter the workfield straight after graduation, so English isn’t necessarily a priority for them. They are all excellently behaved and the staff is quite laid back at that school. Plus, there is a friendly calico kitty that hangs out around the houses across the street from the school. Seeing her before or after class always cheers me up.

My third school is a standard, run of the mil high school. Most students don’t go on to university, but they don’t enter white collar jobs either. It’s the farthest away with a 20 minute train ride and then a 10 minute bicycle ride from the station. There isn’t much else except rice fields, a convenience store, and a few fast food joints around. This is the school I’ve had the most problems with during my time on JET; I am expected to come up with games and lesson plans without the aid of a computer or internet, some of the staff blatantly take advantage of having me in the classroom and don’t lift a finger to help or participate, and the communication so poor that I often have no idea what I’m walking in to.
This spring, the staff at the school shocked me by acting incredibly friendly and outgoing towards me. There is a new principal who likes to chat occasionally in English, and the art teacher and I have become friends. In fact, he encouraged me to come to the art club after school! So, for the first time in a long time, I am painting again. It’s so wonderful. I wish I was there more often!

Ladies and gentlemen, how we get to school. We fly.
Next up, Golden Week shenanigans! Or should I say Shanainigans…?

Thursday, April 11, 2013

Spring, Sakura, and Pre-Industrial Revolution Heating Standards




 After a longer-than-intended hiatus, and some threats made by my Grandmother over my lack of updates, I’m back!

Spring has sprung here in the Kanto area. Clothes hung out to dry now do so in one day instead of two, my electric blanket has stayed off for a while now, I can no longer see my breath inside my apartment, and the sakura had their week or so of beauty before littering the ground with pink.

He enjoyed the "Blossom Parties" a bit too much....
Spring Break was rather lackluster this year. In 2012, my mom and brother came out and their visit relieved me of a lot of boredom. This year, my housemate flew back home for week, no one visited, and there was nothing to occupy my mind except pictures of cats in Halloween costumes and other treasure troves of the internet.

I sneaked out for long lunches almost daily-at least, on the days when the weather was nice. It rained a lot this March, shortening the life of the sakura, and giving me a case of cabin fever every time I went to the office. You see, teachers don’t actually get Spring Break off here. Despite having nothing to do, if I wanted to take time off I would have to use my vacation time. All fine and dandy, except I need those days to escape the unbearable heat of the summer and visit home again! 

It was hard. I fought a tough battle on the brink of insanity. I prevailed. A few days of good weather managed to be snagged, and picnics were enjoyed before eventually being rained out.

The best part about spring isn’t the new school year and the excitement (read:panic) of new classes, but is in fact the realization that I no longer have to have bubble wrap taped to my windows, nor do I have to brave the cold and bike to the gas station to fill up a container of kerosene for my heater.

Behold, the holy grail of heating
I kid you not. These are Japanese heating methods. Yes, the country that has one of the most efficient public transportation systems in the world, the country that churns out robots and levitating vacuums and coffee makers that do your taxes-it really, really sucks at efficient heating methods.
Every window I have ever seen in a private residence has been single pane and poorly fitted. My own window has a draft along the top seal, and I stuffed it full of bubble wrap and tape last autumn. It helped a little, I think, but the heat loss is incredible.

There is also little-to-no insulation between the walls, and central heating unheard of outside of hotel rooms. Instead, the most cost effective way to heat an area is via a kerosene heater. I’m used to it now, and in some ways the smell of a kerosene heater is becoming positively associated in my brain with warmth and comfort, but there’s still the worry of, say, carbon monoxide poisoning. And random explosions. Always the explosions.

My personal favorite piece of heating is the kotatsu. It’s genius, really. It’s a low wooden table with an electric heater built into the underside, topped with a quilt. Many lazy afternoons and evenings have been spent snuggled under its warmth watching Dr. Who. People have been using this system of heat source+blanket for centuries, but it didn’t make the switch from coal to electricity until mid 20th century. In the dead of winter, I find myself thinking how awesome it would be to take a kotatsu home, and then it hits me: Central heating will trump any necessity for a kotatsu. 

Look at these hipsters, being all warm and insulated.

Ah, well, until next winter, dear kotatsu.

Kotatsu Kitty's hobbies include: eating tangerines, drinking crappy beer, and catching colds
from napping under those fuzzy blankets
 p.s. When asked about why Japan has all this cool technology but never applies it efficiently, the answer was, “Japanese people don’t want life to be too easy. We would feel bad otherwise”. Take that to mean what you will!

Saturday, February 2, 2013

Bento-ism

I recently discovered a website called JustBento.com . Bentos are an incredibly popular, packed single portion meal and the Japanese have taken the art of lunch box prep to…well, artistic new heights. Some schools have forbidden students from bringing their own lunchboxes in order to prevent jealousy and bullying among classmates (let’s face it, when you have a nation of largely stay-at-home moms, things can get pretty competitive in regards to child rearing).
 
This practice is less enforced at the high school level, and I am often impressed with the lunch boxes some of my students bring to school (and less impressed with my male coworkers who seem to either scarf down a single Cup Noodle or rely on their wife to make their lunches). Thanks to their artistry, and a delicious winter meal I had with my friend L before Christmas, I got to thinking, “Why can’t I make a bento?”.
 
To tell the truth, I do often bring my lunch to school, although it’s usually half-haphazardly thrown together with whatever leftovers I have in the fridge. A bento, on the other hand, is something that is prepared specifically for lunch. As part of my New Year Resolution to start trying recipes, JustBento.com came into my life precisely when I needed inspiration.
Clockwise from top:Kinpia Gobo, Tamagoyaki (rolled egg omelet) with genmai (brown rice) and hijiki, a small side salad, and kimchi plus homemade takuan!
 
The first thing I made was a side dish called “Kinpira Gobo”, or stir fried carrot and burdock root. Stores carry pre-packaged kinpira, but a few meals worth isn’t worth the convenience (in my opinion). A carrot and a slice of burdock together are maybe $2, and I had the rest of the necessary stuff in my pantry. Burdock is packed with fiber, it’s crunchy and the kinpira recipe is a bit spicy, so it winds up making a really delicious side and a healthy snack option.
 
A light lunch consisting of tofu garnished with leek, some cherry tomatoes, simmered pumpkin, kinpira gobo and smoked salmon
Additionally, I threw a jar of what appears to be bright yellow toxic waste into the fridge. It will continue to sit there until it decides to listen and absorb all the flavors that I ask of it. It's called “Takuan”, and is pickled Daikon, or giant radish. I feel in love with the stuff while at L’s house, and was disappointed when I saw that buying pre-made was close to $3. A bit of daikon at the store is less than a dollar! I found the pickling recipe and threw everything together. I may have to try again and make some adjustments to the sugar, salt and vinegar combination, but so far it’s been fun. My coworkers have been impressed that I’m taking more of an interest in cooking Japanese food. And why shouldn’t I? I’m here, I find cooking therapeutic, and I love trying new foods. It makes perfect sense to try and master this all before moving back to ‘Merica!

Sunday, January 27, 2013

Praha!

I spent the majority of my winter holiday in Switzerland yodeling, herding sheep and trying to find elusive St. Bernards with brandy around their necks, but there was one other place I decided I absolutely had to visit: Prague.
 
Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, is beautiful beyond words. I recall first seeing images of it in a music video I watched in high school by my then favorite band, HIM (“The Sacrament” if anyone is curious). The city’s architecture is a plethora of Gothic, Renaissance, Romanesque, Moorish and much more, however they all blend together to make a magnificent city.
 
I’ve dreamed of going to Prague since I saw that music video and was ecstatic to finally be making it a reality. The city did not disappoint, even though it was at the tail end of my trip and I was tired and low on money. 

The highlights of included: walking across the Charles Bridge (named after Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor), eating more kinds of meat and biscuits in 2 days than I have in months (rabbit is delightful!), seeing the defenestration windows in the Palace (did you know that Prague is one of the defenestration- the act of being forcibly hurled from a window, usually by an incited mob- capitals of the world?) and going to the Alphonse Mucha museum (my favorite artist!).





Charles Bridge, looking back to Prague Castle
The Astrological Clock in the Old Town
 I wish that I had been able to spend more time there with more money because there were some excellent looking day trips offered by the tourist council that went outside of Prague, such as one to a concentration camp. 

A Christmas market in the square near The Church of Our Lady Before Tyn
  Prague was just as beautiful and charming as I had always been told it was, despite the crowds of Russian tourists and the globs of vendors trying to sell cheap trinkets. The Czech Republic has really only opened up its doors to tourism in the past 20 years or so, so the tourism infrastructure hasn’t matured yet to the same level of other major cities in Europe.

My face the entire time I was in Prague
   One day I will go back, if only to have a cup of coffee and meander along the Charles Bridge once more.